Looks like this was a duplicate (alas, one that eluded me for 2 hours)!
https://wordpress.stackexchange.com/questions/170165/wordpress-wp-admin-https-redirect-loop
I needed to add this to my wp-config.php:
/** SSL */ define('FORCE_SSL_ADMIN', true); // in some setups HTTP_X_FORWARDED_PROTO might contain // a comma-separated list e.g. http,https // so check for https existence if (strpos($_SERVER['HTTP_X_FORWARDED_PROTO'], 'https') !== false) $_SERVER['HTTPS']='on';
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