The front-end customization options in self-hosted WordPress are absolute. You can edit whatever you want in PHP/HTML templates and CSS style sheets.
While WordPress comes with single theme (“Twenty Ten” at moment) the availability of third party free and paid themes for it is huge.
See:
-
Where can I download WordPress themes from? for good list of sources for ready-made themes;
-
WordPress frameworks and parent themes if you are more into developing or deeply customizing one yourself.
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