I found that this issue could be overcome by opening the mp3 file in the excellent Linux/Windows application Mp3 Diags and applying the Rebuild VBR Data transformation. It discards the file’s Xing header and attaches a new one.
After doing this, the files’s duration and bitrate are listed in it’s Attachment Details when it is uploaded to WordPress.
If you know simpler way to do this in Windows (for example via shell integration/file explorer context menus) or WordPress (via plugin, etc), I’ll gladly mark your answer as the accepted answer.
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